Desi Bistro brings the heady delights of Bangladeshi cuisine to the UCF corridor

Credit: Matt Keller Lehman

When it comes to cuisine of the Indian subcontinent, Bangladeshi fare has long been overshadowed, practically nullified, by its North Indian, South Indian and Pakistani counterparts in this city. Which is a bit surprising, considering Florida’s sizable Bengali population. Nevertheless, restaurateur Sharif Bappy is out to alter the landscape bit by bit. He opened Desi Mart, a Bengali grocery store/market with an AYCE buffet on North Semoran Boulevard last year, then, a couple of months ago, Desi Bistro in the UCF corridor.

So, what differentiates Bangladeshi cuisine from its Desi rivals? For one, fish is a very common staple, but so are mutton and (because of the country’s predominantly Muslim population) beef. When it comes to spicing, a more even-handed approach is taken compared to, say, the bold and fiery takes in Pakistani and South Indian dishes.

With Desi Bistro sitting in the heart of the UCF corridor, catering to the university’s large student body is requisite for success, which the restaurant’s build-a-bowl area does; for $12, the budget-conscious can get a taste of Desi Bistro’s offerings.

But it’s the right side of the menu board that taps into the rich history of Bengali cuisine. Dal, for example, is a staple at every South Asian restaurant, but the butter dal fry ($18) served here feels lavish and luxuriant and works as well as a soup as it does paired with rice or paratha. Even more indulgent is beef rezala ($21), its soft chunks lolling in a peppery, herbaceous, nutty gravy that I scooped with luchi ($3), a fry bread similar to puri. It’s a special-occasion dish in Bangladesh, though our server said she likes to cozy up on the sofa, mix a bit of dal into it and enjoy it with mashed potatoes for the ultimate comfort nosh. Consider doing the same if you have leftovers.

Ilish, or hilsa fish, is prized in Bangladesh for its rich, oily and buttery flavor, but is harder to procure in Florida, so swai takes its place in the tawa fish fillet ($19). A hint of house “master masala” is used to season the fish, a blend that includes everything from white mustard seeds and mango powder to saffron and Kashmiri chili powder. On that gorgeous plate was also a mound of addictive fried rice (with vegetables that, sadly, seemed like they were once frozen).

Where we really felt the intensity of that master masala was in the mutton ribs ($35). The lean goat flesh layered with fatty parts makes for a bold gnaw — if ribs are your thing, give these a go. If they’re not, tandoor-fired bihari kebab ($21), a Pakistani favorite, is sure to please the most ravenous of carnivores. The ultra-soft beef is tenderized with papaya paste, and the char on the meat’s crusty exterior had us swooning in our seats. Grilled onions, tomatoes and chili peppers are included, as is a side — buttery naan was our choice.

Samosas, of course, are another South Asian staple, but the Bangladeshi variants served here are corpulent and unique in their fillings. I sampled the kaliza ($11 for two), or beef liver, samosas on one visit, and those deep-fried pockets packed both heat and weight. Potato samosas ($8 for two) were smaller, but just as gratifying. Pani puri, or fuchka ($12), as it’s called in Bangladesh, is prepped at a station next to the register. The eight crispy puri shells sat atop shot glasses filled with flavored water that veered sweet more than tangy. Not that it stopped me from downing them all, though admittedly, I did make a bit of a mess in my pani-pouring. The razor-thin napkins they provide aren’t adequate enough to wipe mouths and fingers; I’m hoping they get upgraded.

Credit: With Desi Bistro sitting in the heart of the UCF corridor, catering to the university’s large student body is requisite for success, which the restaurant’s build-a-bowl area does; for $12, the budget-conscious can get a taste of Desi Bistro’s offerings.

Dishes can take a while to come out — they need some extra bodies in the kitchen and behind the counter to keep up when the dining room starts to fill. If you find yourself waiting, do so with a brass cup filled with nimbu pani ($7), or lemonade flavored with mint leaves, chaat masala and sulphury black salt. I absolutely loved it, as I did most everything I ate here. No surprise that Desi Bistro’s Bengal dishes put a tiger in my tank.

Desi Bistro, 12058 Collegiate Way, 407-233-4692, desibistrofl.com